Chefchaouen, the largest town in Morocco’s Rif region, is an excellent place to get away from the hubbub of Morocco’s imperial cities and enjoy an unhurried day or two. Located in northern Morocco, the town is referred to simply as “Chaouen” by the locals and is known for its picturesque medina, access to the mountains and an abundance of kif. These factors have made Chefchaouen a popular stop on the backpacker itinerary, but all types of tourists come to the town to explore its architecture, learn about Berber culture and take pleasure in its natural setting.

Start the day with an early morning stroll around the old medina. You’ll find it’s not a complicated labyrinth like Fez or Meknes, and you can stop and look at a tourist map without being accosted by faux guides and souvenir peddlers. Be sure to check out the local handicrafts at the Ensemble Artisanal and get some photos of Chefchaouen’s typical blue-wash architecture. Stop by Plaza Hata to purchase goat butter or local mountain honey, or head to Plaza el-Majzen for more typical souvenirs and regional handicrafts.

Order breakfast at a cafe near Plaza Uta el Hammam, the town’s main square. From here you can get a view of the Great Mosque and its 15th-century octagonal tower. Muslim visitors can go inside the mosque, but non-Muslims are not permitted. Spend the rest of the morning checking out the kasbah, the town’s fortress which was restored in the 17th century. Inside you’ll find a garden, a museum and the prison cells used during Spanish rule. From the kasbah’s rooftop, you can get a nice view of the town.

For the afternoon, take a short stroll to the abandoned mosque outside town (15 minutes on foot) and be back in time to have a relaxed lunch at one Chefchaouen’s outdoor cafes. A more ambitious travel itinerary could include packing a picnic and hiring a grand taxi to take you to Au Pont de Dieu (the Bridge of God), an impressive natural rock arc about 30 minutes’ drive from Chaouen. Another way to pass the time is to learn about aromatic and medicinal plants of the region. Contact Chaouen Rural to arrange a half-day trip to La Maison Rurale d’Aghram. You can also see olive groves and learn how regional olive products are made.

You won’t find any real nightlife in Morocco in this region. Instead, have a candlelight dinner at one of the nicer restaurants, such as La Lampe Magique. Play cards, listen to a fellow traveler strum the guitar or read a book atop your hotel’s rooftop terrace. Above all, relax before heading to the next frenetic bus station or embarking on a multi-day trek in the Rif, which is best arranged before your visit with Gite Talassemtane. This gem of a hotel runs Ecotourisme et Randonnées Chefchaouen, a company operating hikes, walks, and treks with a focus on the local culture and environment.

Written by Heather Carreiro.

Photo by blueSkySunHigh.

The Rif Mountains and the Mediterranean beaches are what make of Al Hoceima one of the most attractive and enticing cities in Morocco. Entering the city, you may think you are arriving in a very common Moroccan town with cube-like buildings, cafes and a few hotels. Despite this, the natural setting around Al Hoceima is makes it seem much more remote than most people probably imagine.

Al Hoceima, also known among the locals as Biya, is located on the Mediterranean coast of Morocco. It was colonized by the Spanish for more than three decades during which it was called Villa Sanjuro. You can still see the Spanish architectural influence throughout the city in spite of the growing number of new buildings. Many residents of Al Hoceima still speak fluent Spanish as their second or third language. Most of the population are Berbers from the Bucoya tribe who speak Tamazight, a Berber dialect.

Al Hoceima offers numerous hiking trails due to the fact that it is surrounded by the verdant slopes of the Rif Mountains. Of all other mountain ranges in Morocco, the Rif has the most dense and colorful flora, offering spectacular views. You can ask your hotel to arrange a guided hiking tour or recommend somebody who can facilitate your trip.

Many count Al Hoceima’s beaches among the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. You can drive about ten minutes outside the city to find almost private white sand beaches that seem untouched. In the heart of the city lays the Quemado beach, which is far less unspoiled than the other beaches, though it can be very crowded in the summer.

The best time to visit Al Hoceima is outside high season from October to the end of April when the beaches and streets are not so busy. Depending on your budget, you can either stay at one of the hotels on Mohammed V Avenue or pitch your tent at one of the city’s camping sites equipped with showers.

Written by Ghizlane Gray.

Photo by pretphoto.

The Rif Mountains may not have the high peaks of the Toubkal region or the dramatic gorges of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, but Morocco’s northernmost mountain range offers some laid back trekking and views of the azure Mediterranean.

When to Go

The best time to visit the Rif is during the spring from late March through June. The summer months can get unpleasantly hot during the day if you plan on doing any hiking or trekking, and the winter months from November to March can be quite cold. Weather from August to October is excellent, but locals are busy with the regional kif (marijuana) harvest and it can be more difficult to find onward transportation.

Where to Visit

The base for exploring the Rif Mountains is Chefchaouen. Referred to simply as “Chaouen” (sha-wen) by locals, the town’s name means “peaks.” Even if you’re not into hiking, you can enjoy mountain views from the town square or from your hotel’s rooftop.

Accommodation and restaurant offerings cater mostly toward a backpacker/budget market. For upscale options, check out Hotel Parador or Casa Hassan.

What to Do

In town, wander around checking out the distinct white and blue architecture; keep your eye out for exquisitely carved wooden doors. Bargain for blankets in the medina or pick up a hand-knit scarf or hat. Locally made pillowcases come in vibrant regional colors and make inexpensive, lightweight gifts to bring home.

A moderately challenging day hike with good views is from Chefchaouen town to the limestone rocks at Sfiha Telj. You can stop for lunch at Ain Tissimlane spring or at the campsite just below the sprawling, jagged rocks of Sfiha Telj. The hike is steep; start early if you plan to do the trip round trip in one day. Plan to camp overnight if you’d like to walk at a more leisurely pace.

Considerations

Chefchaouen is a hilly town. Lanes within the town aren’t paved and are bumpy; travel in the Rif region would not be suitable for mobility-impaired visitors.

Selling and exporting kif is one of the region’s largest economic activities. Don’t be surprised if you’re offered some while walking down the street, riding in a taxi or checking into a backpacker hotel. If you smoke it, beware, as different crops have different potency levels. It’s illegal for foreigners to take kif outside the country. If you plan to cross the border into Spanish Melilla after your trip in the Rif, you may have the pleasure of experiencing a full cavity search. Don’t attempt to bring kif with you into Spain; the border guards will find it.

Written by Heather Carreiro.

Photo by gavinkwhite.

Located in Northern Morocco along the Mediterranean Coast, Oued Laou is a charming fishing village, and you’ll have little to do but relax on the beach and watch the fisherman cast their nets. Oued Laou’s remoteness and long empty beaches draw backpackers and budget travelers looking for some peace and a break from the more populated areas of Morocco. The beach around Oued Laou stretches for many kilometers so visitors can always find a place all to themselves even during the busier summer months.

The town of just over 8,000 inhabitants gets its name from the Oued Laou River, which flows into the ocean from its source up in the Rif Mountains near Chefchaouen. The drive to Oued Laou from either Tetouan or Chefchaouen takes you over rolling hills with views of the dramatic coastline. If you’re coming from Chefchaouen stop off at the huge hydroelectric dam and at the windy Laou Gorges for photos.

Lodging options are limited in Oued Laou, but there are a few budget hotels to choose from. Located right on the beach with views of the sea, the Hotel Oued Laou caters to the backpacker crowd. There is also a campground next to the town’s municipal building with hot showers and a few bungalows available for rent. The Mare Nostrum is the more upscale option with large cliff side bungalows overlooking the sea, a pool, luxurious lounge and private beach.

Sample the catches of the day at Rais Restaurant where you can literally taste sardines fresh off the boat. The fish is about the freshest you can get since it is caught a mere 50 meters from door to the restaurant. The owner of Cafe Picasso cooks up tagines on the beach. This traditional Moroccan dish combines slow-cooked meats like lamb or chicken with a medley of ingredients and an aromatic blend of spices like cinnamon, turmeric, cumin and paprika. Tangine is named after the unique earthenware pot in which it is cooked and is often served in a traditional ceramic dish called a Tagra.

Nightlife is limited in Oued Laou to a few coffee shops and informal gatherings on the beach where you can easily converse with the locals. The people of Oued Laou are very friendly and welcome to visitors so consider supporting the local culture by purchasing ceramics and fabrics made by the village women.

Written by Amiee Maxwell.

Photo by amateur_photo_bore.

Melilla is a Spanish enclave located on Morocco’s eastern Mediterranean coast. About halfway between the Moroccan cities of Al-Hoceima and Oujda, Melilla is less visited by tourists than its sister city, Ceuta, the other Spanish enclave remaining in North Africa. The city has been under Spanish control since 1496, although it has been an important port city in the Mediterranean since Phoenician times. Now many of this outpost’s inhabitants are Spanish military troops.

If you plan on spending the day in Melilla, start by exploring the old city’s medieval fortifications and enjoying the views of the Mediterranean from its ramparts. Dial in with your cell phone to get an audio walking tour of the old city; you can get the numbers for each city section by calling the Tourist Information Office at 952-67-54-44 or visiting the information kiosk in Plaza de España before you start your tour. 

While in Melilla la Vieja, be sure to hit the Museum of Archaeology and History and the Military History Museum. When the port of Melilla was dredged, more than 10,000 coins from different periods were collected, including some as old as the first century BC. Many of these coins are on display at the Museum of Archaeology and History. The Military History Museum has an extensive collection of weapons, munitions, flags and reproductions including a scale model of Melilla Square as it was in 1846.

Before you leave the old city, be sure to visit Las Cuevas des Coventico, the Caves of the Convent. These natural caverns are said to have been excavated by the Phoenicians and have been used as hiding places throughout different eras. Guided tours are available, but the caves are closed on Mondays.

After trying some local cuisine for lunch, spend the afternoon checking out the new city’s mix of colonial and modernist architecture, browsing Spanish and Moroccan goods at the mercadillo, or lounging at the beach. You can also have a go at various water activities like sailing, diving, fishing and snorkeling; to arrange for lessons or rentals, go to the marina or inquire at the Tourist Information Office. If you didn’t get your fill of museums in the morning, head over to the GASELEC Foundation’s Egypt Exhibit; there you can see over 850 reproductions of ancient Egyptian artifacts.

In the evening, sample wine and traditional Spanish dishes at the tapas bars clustered around Plaza de España. Several discos offer dancing well into the night, although these venues are most lively during the summer tourist season when the city is full of Spaniards visiting from the mainland.

Written by Heather Carreiro.

Photo credit: Seychelles88

If you happen to be traveling in Morocco’s northern region you may like to visit the country’s version of Stonehenge: the Monoliths of M’Soura. This Neolithic site is home to a great stone circle in some ways similar to the one located on the plains of Salisbury, England.

The site rests on a prominent knoll in the hamlet of Soura, about seven kilometers southeast of Sidi El Yamani, a larger village only a bus or taxi ride away from Asilah or Larache, two ocean-side resort cities. However, once you reach Yamani you may need a 4×4 vehicle to negotiate the seven-kilometer trek to Soura. Alternatively, you may go on foot, ride a bicycle or even rent a donkey.

You will likely need the expertise of local guide or the services of the site’s custodian to truly experience the site. (An in-country guide may be able to arrange a visit as part of larger regional tour packages.)

The ring of crafted stone monoliths was part of an ancient burial mound or tumulus. They were arranged in a near-perfect ellipse. While many of the stones have fallen down or become broken over time, the presence of 167 intact stones makes it a breathtaking site, one with mystery surrounding it. The highest of the monoliths measures just over five meters high and is called El Uted (the Pointer). Over the centuries, M’Soura was quarried for its finely-wrought stones, most of which were incorporated into buildings and walls.

The monoliths are considered by many to be no less impressive examples of megalithic architecture than the sites at Stonehenge, Tursachan Calanais or Newgrange. Looking at the weathered stones that remain, you can see that the standards employed for not only quarrying, but also dressing, transporting and placing the stones were of amazing quality for the time period.

Not much is known about the people who may have constructed the stone ring that lines the prehistoric tomb, though some stories have been handed down by the locals and then shared with interested travelers. Additionally, some Greek-influenced legends suggest that the Monoliths of M’Soura were part of the tomb for a mythical giant called Anthe or Antæus.

Travelers already in Asilah for some fun in the sun or a restful stay may be intrigued by historical nature of the Monoliths of M’Soura. From that point of departure, you would only need to travel twenty-five kilometers southeast to reach the site. Others may want to check out the Roman Ruins of Lixus, located just five kilometers to the north of the city.

Written by Shaun Kilgore.

Photo by Alexbip.

If you find yourself in northern Morocco, consider stepping over the land border into Ceuta, Spain. Located about an hour east of Tangier by taxi, this autonomous Spanish city is an easy day trip for travelers and a tranquil home to both Arabs and Spaniards.

The lush growth of palm trees so common throughout Morocco continues into Ceuta, decorating the city’s major streets and coastline. The main promenade that overlooks the coast is spacious and clean, and offers numerous fountains, statues and benches.

Though windy at times, the promenade makes for a scenic stroll by day and animated people watching after sunset. As evening falls, a cheery ambiance settles on the well-lit area as families, couples, clusters of teenagers and joggers meander by. The contrast of western attire and traditional Muslim dress highlights the city’s diversity.

If you look over the coast to the north, you’ll see a hill in the distance known as Monte Hecho. You can take a city bus most of the way there or catch a taxi to take you the entire way. Once there, take in the views from all directions, including a panoramic view of the city to the south and a clear view of Gibraltar across the strait to the north. Look for the controversial Francisco Franco monument before you head back to town.

In wandering the city, you’ll encounter numerous parks and cathedrals. Many view the Plaza de Africa as an important spot to stop and soak in a bit of history. The plaza has a few monuments and is bordered by the Our Lady of Africa church and the town hall.

After spending time in Morocco, you may find that you need to adjust to the more European Ceuta. Below are some practical tips for making the transition.

• Euros are the local currency. Expect western prices for food, accommodations, etc.
• Ceuta is in the Central European time zone with Madrid, which is one to two hours behind Morocco, depending on the time of year.
• Though many places offer Wi-Fi, the city has no internet cafes.
• The tourist office near the Plaza de Africa has information about local attractions and a helpful, English-speaking staff.
• The city is small and relatively easy to cover by foot or bike, and the city buses are reliable with inexpensive fares.

To head back to Morocco, simply catch a city bus or taxi to the border and plan to cross the border by foot. The border has a lot of foot traffic and the process is run efficiently. Once across, you’ll be greeted by rows of parked taxis, prepared to take travelers to the nearby Moroccan border town of Fnideq or the more populated destination of Tangier. A handful of local tourism companies offer organized trips to Tangier and/or Tetuan for reasonable rates, which offers an additional option for returning to Morocco.

Ceuta’s coastline spans the Strait of Gibraltar and the Mediterranean Sea. Spain’s mainland is a quick ferry ride away, with high-speed ferries reaching Algeciras in less than an hour. The Spanish mainland is also accessible via helicopter rides to Malaga.

Written by Shelley A. Gable, instructional designer and freelance writer.

Photo by Darksein.

With ancient Berber, Phoenician and Carthaginian roots dating back to the fifth century B.C.E., Tangier is one of Morocco’s largest northern cities. Situated on the North African coast adjacent to the Strait of Gibraltar where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean, it is a multi-cultural hub where Muslim, Christian and Jewish communities co-mingle. The city is also the capital of the Tangier-Tétouan region and of the Tangier-Assilah Prefecture.

During the first half of the twentieth century the city was a popular Mediterranean resort destination. It has been the home to an eclectic mix of expatriates, exiles and refugees and was visited by Tennessee Williams, Jack Kerouac, William S. Burroughs and other literary figures. It was also frequented by artists like Delacroix and Matisse. In addition to being a romantic destination for artistic types, Tangier is a city haunted by a decadent past where drugs and prostitution figured prominently in its background.

The city is currently undergoing urban development and modernization so that it is more appealing to jet-setting tourists from around the world. This means you can experience a mix of ancient sites and modern amenities.

For travelers, this populous city has much to offer in the way of historic attractions. To hit the highlights, consider taking a tour of the Kasbah mosque and exploring the Grand Socco and Petit Socco in the area of the Medina. Like many other Moroccan cities, Tangier has several souks, and you may want to bargain prices with the many merchants in the city for spices, carpets and other trinkets.

Visitors who prefer to get a glimpse of Tangier’s local history and Moroccan history in general—but who don’t want to get dusty amidst the ruins—may wander the halls of the Museum of Moroccan Art. Some may find the strange lead inhabitants of the Forbes Museum a fascinating stop on their tour of the city. Others may seek out a glimpse of the Dar el Mahkzen, the former sultan’s palace which houses an impressive collection of art and priceless Moroccan antiquities.

The city has plenty of fantastic restaurants as well, and some brash foreign visitors to Tangier might choose to lounge in the waters of a hammam, the local version of the more recognizable “Turkish bath.”

If you have more than one day in the city, you may decide to take a day trip to Asilah, a small fishing village known for its beautiful beaches. If you travel to the nearby village of Kalaa you can venture into the Rif Mountains, which offer hiking routes for adventurous travelers.

Written by Shaun Kilgore.

Photo by mhobl.

For outdoor enthusiasts who want to experience trekking in Morocco without the crowds—or for those who have been to Morocco before but are looking for new places to explore—look no further than northern Morocco.

Talassemtane National Park, a vast area with 150,000 acres of forested land, is located near the Rif Mountains, a region north of the Middle Atlas Mountains. While many people opt for tours in the High Atlas Mountains, those who set their sights on Mount Bouhachem and Mount Soukna will have the opportunity to experience Morocco’s great outdoors without rubbing elbows with countless other tour groups.

If you sign up for a Rif Mountain trekking adventure to Mount Bouhachem and Mount Soukna, you’ll most likely begin at Grankha, a popular spot near Talassemtane National Park. The trek from Grankha will take three days and two nights, with five or six hours of hiking each day.

Your legs will be put to work right away when you begin the climb up Mount Bouhachem, which is nearly a 3,000-foot climb in elevation. From the top of the peak, you’ll be rewarded with views of the forested land below, cascades in the distance and local wildlife and birds scattered around you. Your tour guide should be able to answer any of your questions about the natural surroundings, flora and fauna you encounter on Mount Bouhachem or throughout the duration of your trek.

After the morning’s physical exertion, the afternoon stroll down the peak to Hommar will be a welcome reprieve. If you’ve made plans with a tour operator, you won’t need to pack camping gear for the trek. Instead, you’ll have the opportunity to stay in the home of a local resident in Hommar, providing you with a cultural experience to match the adventurous one.

On the second day of your Rif Mountains excursion, you’ll head toward Mount Soukna, which peaks at just under 5,300 feet. Now sufficiently distanced from the city, you’ll have the opportunity to camp beneath the wide open sky of Morocco. Your tour operator will provide tents.

Tie up your hiking boots for the third and final day on the trail, which takes you from Mount Soukna to Mount Mejbarra. Take this opportunity to reflect on your trip in the Rif Mountains; before you know it, you’ll be dropped back into the hustle and bustle of Chefchaouen.

This isn’t, of course, a bad thing. In fact, Chefchaouen is a fun, quaint town, and there are still plenty of things to explore once you reach the city. If you’re a history buff, consider poking around in Chefchaouen’s medina and mosque, which date back to the 1400s. For those who prefer to stick to nature, head back into the mountains or check out the nearby national park. And, because of its location, Chefchaouen also serves as a gateway for a coastal escape. What better way to top off your Moroccan vacation?

Posted by JoAnna Haugen, managing editor at Journey Beyond Travel and author of Kaleidoscopic Wandering.

Photo by Jaboney.

When you visit Morocco, you have a host of choices to make about where to visit and what to do. If you’ve visited Morocco before and have hit all the highlights, or you’re looking for a low-key, under-the-radar destination, consider visiting Asilah, Morocco.

Asilah sits along the Atlantic Coast near Moulay in the northern portion of the country. Situated on the outskirts of the Rif Mountains, its two closest areas for outdoor activities are Jebel Bouhachem Nature Reserve and Talassemtane National Park.

It is a small fishing village and has become increasingly popular in recent years for its beautiful beaches. Because of its location, Asilah was a natural harbor for a variety of people who made their way to Morocco, including the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Portuguese, Phoenicians, Romans and Carthaginians. The most influential culture of the small town was arguably the Portuguese, who provided ramparts, fortifications and walls around the town.

Asilah was not always as peaceful as it is today. The ramparts made it a wonderful haven for pirates during the 17th century. There were a number of battles in and around the fortifications.

Today, however, the village is worthy of exploring once you wander inside the city walls. Every year since 1978, the Asilah Art Festival has lured thousands of people to the city. Artists line the streets to display their work, and the town becomes one live, breathing art gallery. Music also plays an integral part in the festivities.

Beyond the festivals, visitors to Asilah should be sure to visit the Medina. The Koubba of Sidi Mamsur is also worth checking out, though it is not actually open to the public. You can, however, view it from afar.

Because it isn’t as popular as other cities in Morocco, the hotels in Asilah are generally simple and inexpensive, though nothing to write home about. This isn’t the place people travel to for luxury, but it is a pleasant visit for a relaxing, authentic view of Morocco.

If you’d like to venture just beyond Asilah for a view of the countryside, head to Talassemtane National Park. Home to dozens of interesting species and several day treks that traverse the park, Talassemtane National Park aims to conserve the last of Morocco’s fir forests.

Tangier is the closest large city to Asilah. If you plan on only visiting this area of the country, fly into Tangier and make the trip down the coast by train or bus to make the most of your time. Because of its ideal location near the ocean, many people enjoy spending time at the beaches between the two cities, though they can be quite crowded during the summer months.

Posted by JoAnna Haugen, managing editor at Journey Beyond Travel and author of Kaleidoscopic Wandering.

Photo by Miguel Fruto.