If you are planning a trip to the Middle Atlas in Morocco, make sure you don’t miss the Berber village of Zaouia d’Ifrane. The area, located in the province of Ifrane, is known for its cedar and oak forest, waterfalls and beautiful plateaus and cliffs. The town was named after its famous shrine, or zaouia, built around the tomb of the marabout Sidi Boubker Mohammed. For many, it is enough to know that the Zaouia d’Ifrane is part of the town of Ifrane, which will guarantee all visitors an exceptional experience.

The village is visited by tourists throughout the year, due to the numerous activities it offers. Famous for its mountainous environment, many visit to hike and bike in the region. For others, watching the waterfalls while picnicking and resting is what makes a visit to the Zaouia d’Ifrane so special. Walking throughout its dense and rich forest offers a great range of views, from the stunning mountainside to the picturesque waterfalls. Its lush fields offer the perfect camping sites on which to pitch your tent and explore the area.

Starting from Zaouia d’Ifrane, you can see a number of Moroccan cities on a day trip. It is less than half an hour from Ifrane, only 25 km south of Azrou and only about 100 km from Fez. If you are planning on staying in a comfortable hotel while visiting the village, you may want to consider staying in Ifrane or Fez. Zaouia d’Ifrane has only a few backpack lodges.

Written by Ghizlane Gray.

Photo by Amina Lahbabi.

Often overlooked by tourists, Meknes, Morocco, is a culturally rich city with a modern twist—the best of both worlds. Here you can visit ancient palaces and tombs, and afterward head to a downtown cafe for an ice cream cone or milkshake.

Meknes, one of Morocco’s imperial cities, founded in the 11th century by Moulay Ismail, will give you a genuine sense of Morocco’s past. Home to multiple historical and cultural attractions, Meknes is surprisingly modern at the same time.

Located about 130 km inland, this northern city has a seasonal climate. But beware, one thing is the same year-round—the nights are cold. Daytime temperatures rise from anywhere between 10 and 14 degrees Celsius. So don’t let the summer months fool you. You’ll need a jacket even in August.

While touring the city, don’t miss Place el-Hedim. Built by Moulay Ismail for public executions and royal announcements, this structure is now the heart of the Medina. It’s the perfect place to kick your feet up and people watch. Visit one of the cafes within the square, where you can order some mint tea and listen to local musicians playing for tips.

Bob el-Mansour—a massive, internationall renowned entrance—is one of the most intriguing parts of Place el-Hedim. It’s the most impressive of all Moroccan gates. Completed in 1732 by Moulay Ismali’s son, the gate has been well preserved. Although you can only walk through the gate on special occasions, it’s worth a snapshot or two while you’re walking around the market.

Of course, like most other cities in Morocco, the souks of Meknes are a must-see. They aren’t as large as the souks in Fes or Marrakesh, but the relaxed pace makes shopping and bartering much more enjoyable. In the Meknes souks you’re free to wander around aimlessly, taking in all the sights, sounds and smells.

If you’re craving a taste of Moroccan history, there are plenty of museums to visit in Meknes as well.

The Dar Jamaï museum has been used for various purposes in the past. Built in 1882 to house the Jamai family (who had connections with Moulay el-Hassan), the building was then used as a military hospital until 1912. In 1920 it became the Museum of Moroccan Art. It now houses intricate pieces of art, like traditional ceramics, jewelry, embroidery and rugs.

The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail would be another sight to see while visiting Meknes. After traveling through several peaceful entrance courtyards, you will remove your shoes and pay a fee. The tomb and surrounding rooms are meant to be places of quiet and tranquility. Non-Muslims are not allowed to approach the tomb itself, but they are allowed to take photos of the lavish and intricate décor.

Meknes offers a laid-back alternative to the hustle of many Moroccan cities. If you’re finding yourself overwhelmed, but still aching for a real taste of what Morocco is all about, Meknes may be a great travel destination for you to explore.

Written by Amanda Sandlin.

Photo by snarl.

For visitors to Morocco, Fez’s medina can feel very foreign indeed. The walkways wind up and down through the hilly city, too narrow for cars or all but the slimmest carts and carriages. The medina is much like it was hundreds of years ago; the pace and structure of life still follow the old rhythms. You can feel the age of the medina—and its history—with each step. Nowhere is this truer than in Fez’s tanneries.

The tanneries of Fez, holdovers from medieval times, produce much of the city’s renowned leather. Few who visit a tannery are left underwhelmed. The sight of dozens of men, many waist deep in dyes, working at a trade few outside this world could see, is a sight to behold.

Fez’s tanneries are spread out like a tray of watercolors. Deep vats hold dyes in an array of colors and shades, each manned by a single tanner. Taking the raw leather into the vat, the tanners stomp on the hides, working them underfoot for hours until they are soft and pliable, and have taken on the desired color.

The main ingredient in the vats is actually pigeon droppings, harvested every day by small boys who hope to one day become tanners themselves. The vats also contain a mixture of acids, natural pigments and cow urine. The caustic mixture helps to break down the tough leather and allow for the full absorption of the dye.

Once the leather is ready, it is taken to a nearby rooftop or clearing and laid flat in the sun to dry. From here it is sold directly to merchants and shoemakers, who use this and other raw materials to craft babouches, bags, garments and a myriad other goods for sale. Indeed, after a trip to the tanneries it’s hard not to come away with not only a new appreciation for the craft of leather making, but also for the artisans who ultimately put it to such wonderful use.

If you decide to visit a tannery while in Fez, there are a few things to bear in mind. First, while their location is by no means a secret, finding your way through the medina to an ill-marked passageway can be tricky even for the navigationally gifted. There are innumerable guides who would be happy to help you find and tour the tanneries, and even walk along the lower levels.

Your hotel or hostel can usually put you in touch with a reputable guide and probably has good relationships with a number of locals happy to show you about. Make sure, though, that you agree on a price and game plan before you set out.

Be aware, too, that the aroma of Fez’s tanneries can be just as breathtaking as the view.  Considering the materials in use, this comes as no real surprise, but it’s still best to be prepared. While a handkerchief or scarf can only dampen the odor, you’ll be happy you have it at the ready.

Written by Margaret Jackson.

Photo by thisyearsboy.

Chris Padgett and his wife are the owners of Savor Morocco, a cooking school and guest house in Meknes, Morocco. He took a few minutes to answer some questions for us about his business and his tips for people traveling to Morocco for the first time.

Tell us a bit about your cooking school and guest house, Savor Morocco. What led you to opening such a business in Morocco?

Back when we lived in Texas, I owned a catering business that was fairly successful. We were able to sell it for quite a profit. For many years, I have been in the food service industry / customer service business. Both my wife and I wanted to live overseas for a season of our lives. When our kids were young, we decided it would be a great time to move and raise them in multi-lingual country. We moved over to Morocco with numerous business ideas, eventually landing on the cooking school / guest house.

Our cooking school has been running for almost 3 years. During this time, we have held close to 200 classes, teaching countless foreigners how to create some amazing Moroccan cuisine. People come in and learn how to prepare the traditional mint tea, an appetizer and main dish. At the same time, they learn about the history of the dishes along with various cultural differences, sprinkled in with some great stories of Morocco’s past.

The guest house is located on several floors above the cooking school. It has been a great safe haven for travelers throughout their trek. Often times, we have groups stay for extended amounts of time and use Meknes as a base to see numerous surrounding towns and villages, including Fes. One of the great aspects of our guest house is that we provide much more space than a traditional hotel room, along with a full-scale kitchen to prepare your own meals and facilities to wash your own clothes in the midst of those long trips.

What do you hope people will get out of their experience with Savor Morocco?

Our greatest hope is that they will go back to their home countries and prepare some of these amazing dishes with their family and friends. That for the rest of their lives, they will remember their time in the Roc from the cuisine that they learned. The people in this nation are extremely hospitable and live in such a richly storied land. We hope that people will always remember their time in Morocco as one of enrichment and delight.

Do you have a favorite Moroccan food or dish?

My favorite dish in Morocco is the Bastilla. It is a savory and sweet dish at the same time. Wrapped in phylo dough is a mixture of fish or chicken, almonds, onions, eggs, and spices. Baked in the oven, it is served hot with powdered sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on top.

What do you think are the must-see, must-have Moroccan experiences for a first-time visitor?

Located about 30 minutes outside of Meknes are some ancient Roman ruins dating back over 2000 years. It’s quite a site to see. Another thing that people must see is the old medina of Fes. It’s one of the largest and most traditional shopping souks in all of Morocco. Also, eating a camel burger is a must for anyone that travels over here. Even though they sound interesting, they are delicious.

I understand that, in addition to Savor Morocco, you have an impressive athletic track record and may be the only chef / guest house owner triathlete in all of Morocco. Tell us briefly about your current athletic endeavors.

I am currently training for my second half-ironman in Lisbon at the end of April. It will be another stepping stone as I keep pushing myself to fulfill a life goal of completing an Ironman. It takes a lot of time and energy to keep pushing myself. But I know the fulfillment of that goal will be priceless.

Photo courtesy of Chris Padgett.

Located in north central Morocco, Taza province is home to Jebel Tazzeka National Park, the medieval city of Taza and the largest underground cave network in North Africa, the Friouato Caves.

Taza city, the provincial capital, is a two-hour journey from Fez by road or by train. Although not one of Morocco’s most well-known tourist destinations, Taza is an interesting spot for a day trip or a weekend getaway. A quick trip is also feasible from Meknes or Nador, as both cities are about two and a half hours’ drive from Taza. Scheduled public transport isn’t available from the city to the national park or the caves, but you can hire a grand taxi or minivan to explore the region.

The majority of tourists who end up in Taza come to check out the Friouato Caves, locally known by their French name: Gouffre de Friouato. First explored in 1930 by French adventurer Norbet Casteret, the cave system is more than 150 feet deep and extends at least 3.8 km (2.4 miles) under the earth’s surface.

Open to the public daily from 7:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., the caverns can be accessed by amateurs as well as experienced spelunkers. If you’ve only got limited time, you can pay the small entry fee to descend a ladder into the main cavern and see centuries-old stalactites and stalagmites.

For travelers willing to wiggle on hands and knees through muddy crawl spaces, wade through knee-deep water and dodge bat droppings, a multi-hour guided tour is available. Once inside, you’ll cross underground lakes and explore various caverns.

Don’t expect well-lit tunnels or guide ropes; much of the time your only light will be from your headlamp and the rock floor will be slippery. The spelunking tour is only suitable for able-bodied adults and older children. Be sure to bring an extra set of clothes or you’ll have trouble finding a taxi that will take you back to town! It’s best to start a trip from Taza to the caves in the morning, as you’ll need to arrange for a taxi or van to transport you there and either wait or come back and pick you up after the tour.

Once back in Taza, you can spend the afternoon checking out the city’s fortifications and medieval buildings. Set between the Rif and Middle Atlas mountain ranges, Taza served as a fort that overlooked the important Tizi n’ Touahar pass. You can see the old medina with its city walls and 16th-century bastion built under the Saadians. Other architectural sights in the old city include the Great Mosque, started during the Almohads’ rule in the 12th century, and the Andalus Mosque.

Written by Heather Carreiro.

Photo by -AX-.

Fes will charm you with its culture tucked into every tightly woven street corner, but it can be nice to escape—even when you’re enjoying this fascinating old city. If you’re aching to break through the city walls for a day, we’ve got you covered.

Some of the most popular day trips from Fes include Meknes and nearby Volubilis, as well as the capital of Morocco, Rabat. It’s time to plan your Morocco itinerary … you’ve got lots of places to explore!

Meknes

Meknes, an imperial city founded in the 11th century, used to be the capital of Morocco. It lies about 70 kilometers west of Fes, easily accessible by train.

This city offers plenty of visually stimulating and historically significant architecture. A triple wall defense system, which has been in place for centuries, still borders the city. If you’re on the hunt for some of Morocco’s most beautiful architecture, visit Meknes.

Also unique to Meknes are the carved gates, which are prime examples of preserved Islamic art.

In Meknes, you can also visit the Sidi Saïd mosque, the Dal El Makhzen royal palace, the Tomb of Moulay Ismail—the sultan who turned Meknes into a Royal City—as well as various souks throughout the city. The souks are great for shopping, offering much of what Fes does but at lower prices.

Volubilis

Volubilis, the ancient Roman city that makes Meknes such a popular destination, is close by. The marble ruins and mosaics, popular with visitors, are still in decent condition.

You can also relax in the gardens of the Meknes Royal Golf Course, which surrounds the palace walls. Kick back at a public café on the grounds while watching the sun set over the ancient ruins.

Macaques monkeys kept in chains throughout Volubilis are tourist traps. Taken out of their natural habitat in the Atlas Mountains, they’re used by locals to make profits. Companies such as Lonely Planet and various animal rights groups recommend you don’t pose with the macaques.

Rabat

Although a lengthier trip—about two hours west of Fes—Morocco’s capital city of Rabat is worth the drive. Visit Chellah Gardens, Rabat’s empty, somewhat hauntingly creepy ruins. Stroll through the gardens and soak up some history. Some even compare the thriving vegetation of Chellah to that of Northern California. Keep an eye out for the eel ponds.

Rabat’s relaxed vibe will be appreciated after the constant buzz of Meknes and Fes. Although prices are a bit steeper, Rabat is the ideal place to see some of Morocco’s most popular sights.

Getting Around

Travel around Morocco is relatively simple. Trains are comfortable and run on time. Although they are rarely full and leave regularly, it’s recommended that travelers purchase train tickets one day in advance.

Another option is to go by bus, a cheaper alternative to train travel. CTM is Morocco’s best bus company, with buses running from Fes to many major cities in the country. CTM’s ticket system is computerized, so you can buy a ticket at any CTM office for any destination in the country.

Of course, the most expensive option would be taxi. The Grande Taxi system doesn’t have meters, so you’ll have to negotiate a price in advance. Start prepping your bartering skills today!

Although Fes offers many attractions for visitors, be sure to take advantage of everything that surrounds the city as well. With convenient and relatively cheap public transportation options, these day trips from Fes are yours to explore.

Written by Amanda Sandlin.

Photo by Gerard Stolk op weg naar 8 maart.

With its roots as one of Morocco’s imperial cities, Meknes has plenty of history and architectural treasures to attract travelers. It was once the shining capital during the dynasties of Berber and Arabic families, but though it has faded into the background a bit, Meknes continues to attract international visitors. Located close to Fez, one of Morocco’s more populous cities, it is also a very popular jump off point for those who want to see other sites in the region.

Meknes itself is made for explorations with sites like the Dal El Makhazen palace, the Tomb of Moulay Ismail (the sultan who once ruled Meknes as a capital city) and plenty of souks that provide colorful shopping experiences for locals and visitors alike. However, destinations beyond the immediate walls of the city also have much to offer, and those who want to explore Morocco’s wine country or get a glimpse of the age old techniques used to produce premium olive oil will be in for a treat.

Travelers can find numerous vineyards and olive groves scattered all around Meknes. It is possible to make one of these tours into an impressive day trip if you want to roam. You can spend the day tasting wines and olive oil, which are made from ancient pressing techniques used for thousands of years.

One of the more popular day trips out of Meknes takes you out to the ruins of the Roman settlement known as Volubilis. The town, dating back to the 4th century, was an important administrative locale. While the ruins have been exposed to elements for centuries now, they remain in decent condition. If you happen to appreciate design or city planning, you might find Volubilis to your liking.

Another great day trip that could be added to Volubilis is a tour of Moulay Idriss, a nearby city—really more of a town of white-washed homes—located in a valley in the Rif Mountains. It is named after Moulay Idriss, a leader responsible for introducing Islam to Morocco. In fact, until 1916, non-Muslims were not allowed within the city. Yet it has grown into a popular spot for many global travelers.

If you prefer simply to wander on your own away from the city atmosphere, it is very possible to amble in the countryside with its rolling hills.

For visitors in the area who have not been to the region at all but are based in Fez or Rabat, it is possible to make Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss a full day trip.

You can get around by taxi or bus. Watch out for the little blue Unos or Peugeots; they’re everywhere and are efficient. The local bus services are also fairly reliable and have good coverage, but you need to be prepared for the cramped rides as they are often overcrowded.

Written by Shaun Kilgore.

Photo by krisR99.

Located in the Middle Atlas Mountains, Fez serves as Morocco’s cultural and religious center. The stark contrast between the old city’s narrow lanes, where donkeys barely have enough clearance to pass pedestrians, and the Ville Nouvelle’s wide, tree-lined streets is striking for many travelers, and it is this juxtaposition of medieval and modern that makes Fez one of Morocco’s top tourist destinations.

Explore the Old Medina

The central place to enter Fez’s walled city is at the gate of Bab bu Jeloud; petite taxis can drop you off there. Before getting out of the taxi, decide if you want to explore the medina on your own or hire a guide, because, as soon as you open the car door, local tour guides, both official and non-official, will close in on you to offer their services. If you don’t have a map and don’t speak French or Arabic, it can be worth hiring a guide for a walking tour so you don’t get lost.

Be sure to check out the Islamic school of Medersa Bou Inania, Dar Batha Museum and Kairaouine Mosque. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the city’s mosques, but even if you can’t go inside Kairaouine you can still see this exquisite 9th century building’s tile work by peering into its courtyards.

Practice Your Haggling Skills

Fez’s old city is one of the best places to shop in Morocco, and by visiting the workshop areas of its souqs you can often meet the craftsmen who produce the goods and buy directly from them. To get good deals, avoid large stores near the entrance of Bab bu Jeloud and go down smaller side alleys to meet local artisans. Fez is famous for its blue and white pottery, metal work (including teapots), carpets, henna, jewelry and textiles.

Visit a Leather Tannery

Whether you’re interested in buying leather or not, visiting one of Fez’s leather tanneries can be a memorable experience. Located on the outskirts of the old medina, the leather tanneries are where Fez’s leather products are treated and dyed. During a tannery visit, you’ll climb up several flights of stairs to a rooftop where you can look down on centuries-old dying vats. The smell at the tanneries is overwhelming for most foreigners, and visitors are often given sprigs of mint to stick up their nostrils.

Hike to the Merenid Tombs from Borj Nord

At night, the old city’s walls and ramparts are lit up, and many locals and tourists head to Borj Nord to enjoy a panoramic view of the city. This lookout area was built in the 16th century to allow then-ruler Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour’s men to keep watch over the city and its inhabitants. A military museum that houses a variety of Moroccan weaponry, including a 12-ton canon, is open at Borj Nord during the day, and the short hike to the nearby Merenid Tombs can turn a visit to the ramparts into a more active half-day trip. Keep in mind that the tombs are off limits after dark.

Written by Heather Carreiro.

Photo by P.J.P

For travelers who decide to make the trek to the ruins of Volubilis, the main appeal is the fact that they offer excellent views of Roman art and architecture against the backdrop of the Moroccan countryside. Built upon the remains of an older Carthaginian city, the Roman settlement dates back to the third century BC. It was also very likely an administrative center in Roman Africa to oversee the exportation of grain back to Rome.

Even after the empire collapsed, Volubilis remained a functioning city. In fact, it was not uncommon for many of the widespread Roman settlements to carry on long after the empire that gave them birth fragmented. In Volubilis, the Latin language and some form of Roman culture persisted for a three centuries until the Arabs conquered North Africa in the latter part of the seventh century.
Volubilis remained inhabited for more than a millennium until it was abandoned in the eighteenth century AD. Much of the city’s marble architecture was scavenged then used to create the palaces of the Moulay Ismail in the nearby town of Meknes.

Visitors to the site of the ruins may be surprised to note that the main area of interest to most visitors is situated on little more than an 800 x 600 meter area enclosed by walls. It contains a selection of 30 beautifully preserved mosaics that remain in their original locations. While there have been excavations on the site for decades, in recent years, much of this activity has been refocused to the museum around the royal palace in Rabat.

There are other attractions that you should take the time to look at up close when you visit the ruins. Lying on the edge of the ruins is the triumphal arch, a military and ceremonial structure of no little import to the Romans. It has remained remarkably well-preserved and offers a stark point of contrast between the rubble of Volubilis and the open fields of grass.

Volubilis’ forum is of typical dimensions for a Roman town of that size and population (it had approximately 20,000 residents). Still, the great columns are an impressive display. You can also wander through the remains of Volubilis’ basilica. There’s little left beyond the walls and some columns, yet those 10-meter high walls are in superb shape despite being more than 2,000 years old.

Another stop is the garden at Volubilis, which is hard to miss. You must pass through it to enter the main ruins. The garden offers a great place to stop and rest a few minutes amidst sheltering trees and gentle brooks.

You might note that the best time to visit Volubilis is during the spring months of April and May or during September or October in the fall. If you’re anxious to take photos you’ll get the best results either in the early morning or during the late afternoon. The ruins are open from sunrise to sunset every day. You’ll have to pay a low admission fee (around 20 dh) to enter the ruins.

Written by Shaun Kilgore.

Photo by _Pixelmaniac_.

Morocco’s Imperial Cities are the old capitals of historic empires and include Meknes, Fez, Marrakesh and the current capital, Rabat. The smallest and most relaxed of these is Meknes. Known for its grand architecture, medieval walls and beautiful gates, visitors will find much to be enchanted by in Meknes.

Founded in the early 11th century as a military settlement, Meknes became a capital under the rule of Sultan Moulay Ismaïl in the 17th century. The sultan turned Meknes into an impressive city with the creation of vast gardens, numerous edifices, mosques and monuments as well as 40 kilometers of thick walls and monumental gates lining the city.

The 18th century marked an end to Meknes’s glory days with the death of Sultan Ismaïl and an earthquake in 1755 that destroyed parts of the city. In 1996, the city of Meknes made the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites due to its exceptional design including “elements of Islamic and European design and planning in a harmonious fashion.” The designation also fueled many serious renovation projects to help preserve these incredible monuments for the future.  

Many remnants of Sultan Ismaïl’s rule still stand today. Start your visit at the Bab el-Mansour, the biggest and grandest gate in all of Meknes. Made from massive marble columns taken from the nearby Roman ruins of Volubilis, the gate is very well preserved with zellij mosaics and inscriptions across the top. You can’t walk through the bab itself (meaning gate in Arabic), but you can pass through a side door.

The Moulay Ismael Mausoleum is the final resting place for the sultan who created this impressive city. Since Ismaïl is recognized as one of the greatest rulers of Morocco, non-Muslim visitors are permitted into the sanctuary, although they are not permitted to approach the tomb. Visitors enter the tomb through quiet and austere courtyards before entering the lavish and highly decorated tomb hall.

Another must-see sight, the Roman ruins of Voluibis, sit just outside of Meknes. The ruins are the most well-preserved archeological site in Morocco. The site contains more than 30 gorgeous mosaics in excellent condition that tell stories of the ancient Roman Empire. Visiting the ruins of Voluibis is an easy day trip from Meknes and can be combined with a trip to Moulay Idriss, one of Morocco’s most important pilgrimage sites.

Although Meknes doesn’t have the bustling atmosphere and extensive shops like Marrakesh and Fez, the more relaxed ambiance makes Meknes perfect for browsing ceramics, baskets, embroidery, pottery and brilliantly colored silk threads to take home as souvenirs. The government-run Center Artisanale is a good place to check out the goods and the prices before venturing into the souks, the open-air markets where haggling is commonplace.

Surrounded by the fertile plains below the Middle Atlas Mountains, Meknes thrives on an abundance of agricultural products like olives, grains, citrus fruits, and wine. Spend the day tasting wines and olive oil grown locally in the ancient groves and vineyards around Meknes, and sample citrus fruits and vegetables at the open-air markets.

Meknes is easily accessible from both Rabat and Fez; it is located on the A2 expressway between both cities and is also accessible by train. Once in Meknes, it is easy to get around by bus, taxi or caleche, a horse-drawn cart.

Written by Amiee Maxwell.

Photo by Rosino.