When planning a trip to Morocco, it’s wise to take the seasons into account. Summer brings blistering heat to the south and the plains, but can be pleasant in the High Atlas Mountains. Conversely, winter snowfalls often cut off mountain passes while areas south of Marrakech will be downright lovely. If you’re planning a trip to Morocco, though, you probably already know this.
What you may not be taking into consideration, however, is Ramadan.
The month of Ramadan changes every year. It impacts every facet of life in the Muslim world, and Morocco is no exception. The holiday commemorates the revelation of the Koran to the prophet Mohammad, and is a festive, joyous time. During Ramadan, Muslims are prohibited from eating, drinking, smoking or having sex during daylight hours. In the evening, families join together, listening for the call to prayer that signals the sun has set and the fast may be broken. In Morocco, the fast is traditionally broken with a bowl of harira (a spiced lentil soup), paired with dates, shabekia (a honey-dipped sesame pastry) and, of course, tea.
While there are numerous caveats that allow the faithful to eat or drink during the day (illness or pregnancy, for example), it is nonetheless regarded as a major taboo to engage in either of these activities in public. If someone is going to drink a glass of water, they do so behind closed doors.
If you are not a Muslim, you are of course not required to fast, nor will you be expected to do so. In fact, most cafes and restaurants will still be open, and many will have their usual outdoor seating. Think carefully, though, about where and when you choose to eat. In larger cities most people won’t bat an eye if they see you having lunch in the square, but in smaller towns your actions may garner more than a few looks. No matter where you are, though, an effort to observe the fast won’t go unnoticed, nor unappreciated. You can store food and snacks in your hotel room, and even if you get a little hungry come sundown, the harira will have been well worth the wait.
Keep in mind, though, that the realities of Ramadan go well beyond the dinner table. Particularly as the month goes on, people become sluggish, and many shops keep limited hours. Most offices will post their Ramadan schedules separately, but it is best to check if you are unsure. The post office, for example, usually opens an hour later during Ramadan and closes two hours early.
Travel can also change. Buses alter their schedules or routes to match the setting sun, or reduce traffic altogether. Taxi drivers are less likely to engage in afternoon or evening travel, and may demand a much higher price if you try and bargain for a trip. Trains generally keep to their given schedules, but again, it’s best to check ahead.
Ramadan can be a wonderful time to explore Morocco. People are excited about the holiday, and their enthusiasm is often infectious. It’s best to know what you are getting in to, though, before you go, and to acknowledge the difficulties of travel during the month. While it may be slightly more difficult, the experience (and the shabekia) will be well worth the effort.
Written by Margaret Jackson.
Photo by Tashland.
