The Roman settlement of Volubilis, located in Morocco, has been around since at least the third century BC, where it was most likely constructed on top of a fallen Carthaginian city. This particular city was once the home of the main administrative center for Roman Africa during ancient times, and it was the home of quite a few major players in the government. On top of that, this city was the main hub of the exports made to Rome during that time, and it was responsible for the production of grain in that particularly fertile region of the country. Volubilis was also home to the diplomats who would contact the Berber tribes and attempt to suppress them for the Roman Empire, but were unable to.
Even though history shows that the Berber tribe was able to cooperate with the Romans when it suited everyone’s needs, when the Romans lost their power in Africa, the Berbers did not push forward into Volubilis. Instead, the city was still occupied even after the Romans vacated, and in fact, the citizens spoke Latin up until the Arabs came in the 7th century AD to attack and conquer North Africa. It was only then that the city had become an Arab settlement, and even then, the architecture has endured some of the tests of time.
For the next thousand years and more, people lived in the city of Volubilis, only finally being abandoned by the people in the 1700s. Unfortunately, this was when the luck of Volubilis’s architecture ran out. In the 18th century, there were orders that Moulay Ismail wanted a palace constructed in Meknes, which meant that the materials needed were gathered by demolishing Volubilis. In the event that there had not been a demolishment of the city, it would have easily been considered one of the single best-preserved sites of Roman culture to date. (See Morocco’s Roman Past)
The Attractions
When visiting Volubilis, the area that will be the most appealing for any visitors is actually quite small. For both native Moroccans and the foreign visitors that come, the walls enclose you in a space that is only 800 by 600 meters. When you come to visit, bring a decent guidebook and you won’t actually need to use a guide that can easily be taken at the gates. This area is where you are able to see quite a few ruins and excavation areas that are currently being explored. The best-quality excavations of the site are not actually there still, but rather have been moved to Rabat, at the royal palace’s Archaeological Museum. Before you think that this means Volubilis offers nothing, do not entertain that thought, as the actual site has quite a few ruins of exceptional condition, and there are over thirty mosaics of an incredibly high quality still in place. (See Morocco’s Roman Past Part II)
While it costs about 20 dh to get in, it is worth every moment. The first sight to see when you reach the ruins is the triumphal arch, and this particular ceremonial and military structure is small but no less triumphant. It towers over the ruins and, while not terribly large, it is in wonderful shape and surrounded by grass with no ruins in sight. You can walk past the arch and suddenly see fields, instead of the expected columns and Roman buildings you would want. It was at the end of the original main street in the city, though, so the fact that it is empty near it is not much of a surprise.
From the arch, a walk further on takes you to the forum, which is a staple of every major Roman town, especially one of political note. This particular town had a population nearing 20,000 at its peak, so this particular forum is impressive. The only parts that really remain are the impressive and beautiful columns of the forum building, which tower over anyone who visits.
Finally, take a look at the basilica in Volubilis, which is an incredibly impressive building that has remained on the ground. This particular area still has full walls intact, archways and windows, as well as columns that will give you a very clear idea of what it probably looked like back when Rome had owned the city. The walls are over ten meters high and happen to be in wonderful shape, which gives you a very good look at how the city may have looked in the past.
Volubilis is a place for history, and while it isn’t a focus on just Morocco, it has a very unique feeling and sensation for a place to visit. With individual highlights everywhere you go in the ruins, this is a wonderful chance to explore the Roman culture in Morocco. Be sure to locate the massive phallic emblem sure to make you cringe.
by Sam Mitchell
