More Than Just a Buzz: Chefchaouen, Morocco
Chefchaouen, Morocco, is one of those locations
that might have appeared in one of an
increasingly unlikely Cheech and Chong movie from
the late seventies. The reason for this is that
Chefchaouen is Morocco’s leading producer of
cannabis. Much of the farmable soil won’t grow
much else, been cannabis grows in abundance and
has made itself such an intrinsic part of the
city’s life that no one gives it much of a second
glance. You might very well see cannabis being
sold in an open stand right in between the
vegetables and the herbs.
The hashish factor alone makes Chefchaouen a
great attraction for a large numbers of tourists.
But travelers not interested in this aspect of
Chefchaouen would still do themselves a major
disservice by skipping this city. While cannabis
is a part of every day city life here, that is
not an accurate description of what the city’s
about. Chefchaouen is a beautiful city that
should be a mandatory visit for the first time
Morocco traveler.
Chefchaouen’s appearance will immediately jump
out at you, whether it is the very first town you
visit in Morocco, or whether you are a long time
visitor of the country and know what the rest of
the nation looks like. Houses are generally
simple, but decorated with bright white walls,
while the doors are painted bright blue. The
streets are remarkably clean by any world city’s
standards, and if the deep blue doors set against
brilliant white houses on immaculate streets
wasn’t enough for you, there is the skyline. The
city of Chefchaouen is nestled snugly between two
mountains, climbing up the valley between the two
and only ending at the water source which
provides some of the freshest water in the
country.
Chefchaouen is much smaller than larger cities
such as Tangier, Fez, or Marrakesh,
making it a popular stop for off the beaten
path types of tourists, and also enjoys a
reputation as being one of the safest cities
in Morocco. This is certainly impressive
considering how safe the majority of nation
is. While any traveler should always use
common sense and be prepared, for that always
lurking “just in case,” Chefchaouen is a rare
city in that it claims safety even at night.
Many travelers who are familiar from earlier
visits to the city will go about their day at
a steady and relaxing pace, refusing to speed
up even after night falls and covers the
entire city in darkness. It appears that there
is simply almost never any crime, and the
safety there is virtually unmatched.
Chefchaouen is also very popular with those
looking for budget Morocco
tours and backpackers not only because of
its excellent northern location, but because
there are many different cheap hostels and
small cheap hotels. Some numbers claim there
are as many as 200 different places to stay,
and a traveler on a tight budget should have
no problem finding a decent and cheap place to
sleep. The townspeople are very friendly and
polite, though a little bit less likely to
invite you into their homes as many Moroccans
are in other parts of the country.
This is actually a very interesting aspect when
you learn about Chefchaouen’s history. Despite
how close to the European continent Chefchaouen
is, there were never any European visitors until
after 1920. This area was once one of the most
hostile towards Europeans, which could be
explained since the town was originally founded
by Jews and Muslims displaced from Spain during
the Inquisition. This hostility continued when
Morocco was fighting the Spanish to avoid being a
colony. The local chief fought the Spanish, and
was captured only with help from French troops.
None of this hostility remains, however, though
the fierce pride of these citizens can still be
seen in that they are very slow to take up
Western habits, in large part because of their
history. The one major exception is Coca Cola,
which can be found everywhere in the country.
Chefchaouen is a popular shopping destination for
many European tourists, as the town offers some
native handicrafts that simply can not be found
in most other places in Morocco. Woven blankets
and wool garments are among two of these
handicrafts, though there are many goods made the
old way, from leather goods to shoes to cedar
wood furniture. In addition to this, Chefchaouen
is a popular stop among tourists who don’t like
tourist towns. While there are many quality
cafes, they do little (to nothing) to cater
towards tourists’ taste buds, instead serving the
quality Moroccan dishes they would serve even if
they were not a tourist town.
From the college student backpacking for a summer
to the tourist shopper to the rock climber who
likes the looks of the cliffs that flank each
side of the town—Chefchaouen offers something for
every traveler on any regular or trekking Morocco
tour or those simply traveling with friends
from Spain for the weekend.